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    愛琴海上的浪漫 在米科諾斯島的慵懶生活

    時間:2010-3-27 23:36:18 點擊:5563


     

      湛藍的愛琴海上波光粼粼,海鷗懶懶地向遠去的渡輪告別,日暉從露臺的落地窗瀉進屋里,窗外花園里一簇簇不知名的熱帶花兒悄然綻放……自從渡輪長鳴三聲開走后,島上寧靜又復——那種時常讓你疑心耳朵是否失聰的寂靜。如果不是身臨其境,真不敢相信地球上如今還會有這樣纖塵不染到連聲音都沒有的地方。
      
      這又是一個昂貴而頹廢的小島,在上個世紀八九十年代,這里成為愛琴海的同性戀中心,也因此而聞名。蜂擁來到米科諾斯島的游客,往往是為了享受島上各種聚會和夜生活的。米科諾斯鎮是基克拉迪建筑(c y c l a d i c a r -chitec t u r e )風格的代表,也是cy-cla d e s 群島最吸引人的地方之一。在兩側亮白色建筑中的狹窄街道,似乎沒有盡頭。可能會帶你來到一個安靜的教堂,也可能會讓你發現幾個有著意外驚喜的別致小店。希臘神話中說,米科諾斯島是由被大力神海格里斯殺死的巨人破碎的身體變成的。
      
      交錯的空間
      
      米科諾斯島距離雅典約150公里,這里曾經海盜橫行,村落空間的整體設計是以防御式的網狀排列組成的。一樓是客廳、廚房和餐室,二樓為寢室,屋與屋之間都是相通的。室外利用得也非常好,宅前的空間和道路是室內空間的反轉和延續,人們在這里讀書看報,乘涼閑談,一派悠然自得、閑情逸致。上下環繞,彎曲回轉的小路對這里的居民來說既是起居室,同時也是休閑聚會的廣場。這種宛如迷宮般的道路結構是米科諾斯島的最大特征。
      
      鵜鶘是居民代表
      
      米科諾斯島上有一位居民很可愛。它每天在大街小巷溜達,你在露天餐廳吃飯時,它的大嘴巴會試圖分享你的晚餐。你最好學會跟它相處,因為它是島民至愛,比起任何一位游客甚至大部分居民,它更有權利在米島放肆。它是一只叫做佩德羅petro的鵜鶘。1954年,一場暴風雨過后,一只鵜鶘決定以此島為家,島民為它取名佩德羅,它從此成為米島的吉祥物。
      
      原來的佩德羅早已過世,島民對它懷念不已,于是找來新的一只,讓傳奇延續。
      
      只想睡覺和泡吧
      
      來米科諾斯島旅游,其實觀光是次要的事,早上睡到自然醒,坐在旅館陽臺上,對著蔚藍的大海,吃頓豐盛的美式早餐,吹一吹清新的海風。中午,入鄉隨俗繼續蒙頭大睡。日影西斜以后,島上店鋪開門營業,整個小島開始活躍起來,或許你對后海的烤肉季情有獨鐘,在島上同樣能找到類似的美味,只是這里的羊肉更加新鮮嫩滑。
      
      信步漫游在米科諾斯鎮的街頭,在你大概確認了自己的位置以后,收起地圖,以有名的賓館和飯店為標志,以探索、冒險的精神在迷宮一樣的街道上散步。不用擔心,無論怎樣最后總會走出城鎮。島上酒吧林立,飯后不愁沒有去處。三輪特殊調制的雞尾酒過后,你會發現,周圍的許多人已經成了你的新朋友。
      
      旅游提示
      
      住宿
      
      米科諾斯的住宿選擇很多,從最基本的只有兩三個房間的家庭式旅館(30歐元)到大型的酒店(150歐元),總有一家合適你。價錢相差很大,但舒適度卻不一定跟價格成正比,主要區別在于房間大小、附屬設備(比如衛星電視)、地點、有沒有海景、有沒有私家庭院、庭院大小等。外觀上,都是兩三層小白屋。歐洲衛生條件極好,就是最基本的小旅館,也都很干凈整齊。但建議最好找個有陽臺的房間。
      
      必游之地
      
      1.白教堂堪稱米科諾斯的標志。從市中心廣場沿海邊向堤壩方向走兩分鐘便可到達。無論是陽光燦爛還是陰云密布,在大海和海鷗的映襯之下,白教堂是愛琴海上美妙絕倫的畫面。
      
      2.海港風車位于米島半山,是俯瞰全市的最佳地點。從市中心廣場向北,沿上山的小路約行10分鐘即可到達。極目望去,湛藍的愛琴海上海鷗在翱翔,米島上幢幢白屋被夕陽鍍上一層金光……

    .

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